Photoaging of the skin is a pathological process of changing the structure and condition of the skin, provoked by exposure to ultraviolet radiation. At the same time, photoaging should not be confused with age-related skin changes caused by hormonal failure in the body. Of course, these two processes often occur simultaneously. However, photoaging, unlike skin aging caused by age-related changes, can be prevented.
The content of the article:
The mechanism of photoaging
Clinical picture of photoaging
Histological signs of photoaging
Prevention of photoaging
Methods of combating photoaging
Alternative tan
Photo-aging of the skin
The mechanism of photoaging
The main role in the process of photoaging is played by ultraviolet radiation. At the same time, not only direct sunlight has a detrimental effect on the skin, but also those that are reflected from water, the surface of the soil, objects surrounding a person.
It has been proven that dosed ultraviolet radiation for human skin can even be useful. It activates the production of vitamin D, which is responsible for the content of calcium and phosphorus salts in the blood, the protective functions of the body, has anti-inflammatory and bactericidal properties. However, excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation negatively affects the condition of the skin. Namely, as a result, the DNA structure of cells is disrupted and even a mutation may occur, accompanied by cellular degeneration. A characteristic feature of this pathological process is that the problems caused by it do not disappear, but can accumulate over time.
Under the influence of ultraviolet rays, serious damage to proteins, nucleic acids and lipid structures occurs. As a result of the absorption of light quanta by molecules, the latter lose their stable state, which leads to the formation of free radicals. In parallel with this process, there is an increase in the enzymes of metalloproteases that destroy the proteins of the intercellular substance.
As a result of the gradual accumulation of various kinds of damage, dystrophic disorders of the cells of the epidermis and various intercellular structures of the dermis — elastin and collagen fibers, hyaluronic acid – significantly increase.
It is also worth noting that UV rays can provoke in the skin the activation of division of cells such as keratinocytes, which are involved in keratinization and renewal of the epidermis. As a result of this process, an uneven thickening of the epidermis occurs, which entails changes in the deep layers of the skin.
One of the most dangerous changes is considered to be the destruction of elastin fibers, which is accompanied by their fragmentation, compaction, twisting, structural disruption, and a decrease in quantity. As a result, there are foci of inflammation, stagnant processes in the capillaries, which sooner or later becomes the cause of telangiectasia.
Clinical picture of photoaging
In cosmetology, it is customary to distinguish signs of the skin that indicate its normal condition, youth and the absence of pathological processes. These signs include:
elasticity (good tone);
the absence of pigmentation and its uniform coloring;
resistance to infections;
absence of defects such as wrinkles, scars, dryness and various signs of diseases.
There are several clinical stages of photoaging depending on the age of the patient:
Stage I (20-30 years). This is the initial stage of the disease, which is characterized by such manifestations as minimal wrinkles, moderate pigmentation and the absence of hyperkeratosis (pathology of the stratum corneum, in which its excessive development or, conversely, insufficient exfoliation is observed).
Stage II (30-40 years). At this age, there are usually mild or moderate signs of photoaging. Namely, patients have a yellow skin tone, a network of facial wrinkles appears, it is possible to find foci of keratosis, which, however, are not visually noticeable.
Stage III (over 40 years old). This stage of the disease is characterized by the appearance of very pronounced symptoms of photoaging: deep wrinkles, noticeable keratosis, telangiectasia, dyschromia (violation of normal tissue coloration).
Stage IV (over 60 years old). At this stage of photoaging, such serious skin defects as a yellowish tinge, neoplasms, many deep wrinkles, pronounced lentigo (dark brown spots) are observed.
It is worth noting that signs of photoaging of the skin often appear long before the first manifestations of age-related aging. Namely, the first signs of pathological changes occur in areas of the skin that are almost always open in summer and spring and are affected by direct sunlight (neck, face, decollete, hands and forearm).
Histological signs of photoaging
Photoaging is accompanied by a whole complex of quantitative and qualitative changes occurring in the skin. It is proved that under the influence of ultraviolet rays atrophy of the stratum corneum of the epidermis occurs, uneven distribution of pigment cells, thickening of the basement membrane. At the same time, the severity of pathological changes in the skin directly depends on the degree and duration of exposure to ultraviolet rays.
Photoaging is characterized by such serious histological changes as the destruction of collagen fibers and their replacement with damaged structures. Compared with photoaging, the natural age-related skin change is manifested by completely different signs and is atrophic in nature. Namely, patients have a drooping of skin tissues, noticeable yellow plaques appear near the eyes (xanthelasma), senile and seborrheic warts form.
Scientists have proved that women during menopause are most susceptible to the harmful effects of the sun and photoaging. The fact is that they have a violation of the processes of normal skin regeneration, a slowdown in the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid, and also the process of pigmentation is intensified. All these pathological processes sooner or later lead to severe thinning of the skin, its dryness, decreased elasticity, the appearance of age-related pigmentation. Due to estrogen deficiency, erythema appears, a decrease in the amount of progesterone – hirsutism, seborrhea, acne, seborrheic dermatitis is observed.
Prevention of photoaging
It is possible to prevent photoaging of the skin if you adhere to the rules of photoprotection. Photoprotection is understood as an extensive set of measures aimed at reducing the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin. There is a generally accepted recommendation for anyone who wants to avoid premature aging. Namely, in summer and spring, when the sun’s rays are most active, it is advisable not to be outside for a long time in the period from 10 am to 16 pm. If there is a need to go outside at this time of day, you should definitely get dressed so that the sun’s rays do not fall on your face, neck, and hands.
In addition to routine measures, photoprotection also involves the use of special means, which can be exogenous and endogenous. Endogenous photoprotectors include substances that are taken inside. They have an effective anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect, reduce the amount of free radicals, significantly accelerate the process of skin renewal. Endogenous photoprotectors include ascorbic acid, tocopherol acetate (vitamin E), retinol, zinc, selenium, beta-carotene, flavonoids, polyphenols, procyanidins.
Exogenous preparations are intended for application to the skin. There are several groups of such drugs: with protection from UVA and UVB, as well as combined. In order to assess how well a particular drug protects the skin from exposure to UVB rays, a criterion such as sun protection factor (SPF) is used. Usually this factor is expressed in the form of prime numbers and indicates the degree of protection from radiation.
At the same time, the high level of protection is about 20-30, increased — up to 50, ultra—high – over 50. For a long time, scientists have believed that the higher the sun protection factor, the more the skin is protected from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. However, recent studies show that sometimes even drugs with a high sun protection factor cannot reliably protect the skin from UVA rays.
To protect against UVA radiation, a separate group of agents has been developed, which includes paraaminobenzoic acid, salicylates, cinnamates) and other compounds. In recent years, new combined preparations have been developed that can simultaneously protect the skin well from the effects of UVA and UVB irradiation.
Modern photoprotectors can be divided into several groups, also depending on the mechanism of their action. Namely, it is customary to allocate chemical and mineral funds. The first group includes drugs that provide reliable protection by absorbing energy. As for mineral photoprotectors, they, on the contrary, display this energy. The group of chemical photoprotectors includes cinnamates, salicylates, avobenzone, benzophenones, in the group of mineral preparations — titanium dioxide, red iron oxide, zinc oxide. By the way, titanium dioxide is often included in various tonal products, so they have a photoprotective effect.
Those who want to reliably protect their skin from the harmful effects of sunlight should also pay attention to the clothes they wear in the sunny time of the day. It is believed that ordinary summer clothes can provide a small level of photoprotection. At the same time, linen fabrics have a greater degree of protection in comparison with cotton, as well as colored fabrics in comparison with white. Wool, nylon and polyester have also been proven to be more effective than cotton.
Methods of combating photoaging
Of course, it is much more effective to prevent the signs of photoaging than to treat it afterwards. It is quite difficult to eliminate such signs of premature aging as wrinkles, excessive dryness of the skin, hyperpigmentation. Nevertheless, it is still possible to get rid of such skin defects using the following cosmetic techniques:
biorevitalization;
dermabrasion;
chemical peeling;
laser skin resurfacing;
mesotherapy;
photo rejuvenation.
Biorevitalization. This cosmetic procedure involves the introduction of injections of hyaluronic acid under the skin, which has a powerful moisturizing effect on it. As a result of deep hydration of the epidermis, it becomes more elastic and elastic. You can resort to this procedure at the first signs of premature aging, starting from the age of 30. The whole procedure lasts no more than an hour. It is important that it has a prolonged effect, which is present for several months.
Dermabrasion. The procedure is carried out with the help of such devices and substances as nozzles made of abrasive materials, a stream of microscopic crystals, diamond particles. A noticeable effect of dermabrasion can be seen a few weeks after its implementation. With this procedure, you can get rid not only of wrinkles, but also of age spots, scars, scars.
Chemical peeling. The treatment of photoaging of the skin in this case involves exposure to substances such as retinol and glycol. The result of this procedure is the activation of collagen synthesis, which accelerates the regeneration of the epidermis.
Laser skin resurfacing. This procedure is intended primarily for the removal of serious scars and scars. During it, old skin cells are removed and the regeneration of new cells is activated. In addition, laser resurfacing helps to restore skin elasticity, eliminate fine wrinkles and strong pigmentation.
Mesotherapy. This cosmetic procedure is considered one of the most effective, because it allows you to get rid of dry skin, shallow wrinkles and hyperpigmentation in just a couple of sessions. During mesotherapy, special therapeutic cocktails are injected under the patient’s skin. In order for the effect of the procedure to be really noticeable, it is necessary to complete a course of 5-10 sessions.
Photo rejuvenation. This technique is ideal for eliminating the effects of premature skin aging. During the session, the skin is affected by a pulsating stream of light, which accelerates cell division, increases skin elasticity, smoothes wrinkles, activates metabolic processes.
Alternative tan
One of the most innovative methods of combating the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays is considered to be innovative tinting of the skin with the help of special means. In dermatology, these agents are used to mask depigmented areas. Usually, tanning preparations contain glucose and fructose derivatives (ketosaccharides) in their composition, which temporarily stain the cells of the stratum corneum.
A new skin tone appears a few hours after its coloring. Interestingly, this shade lasts at least 5-6 days. It is worth noting that self-tanning products are completely safe, since they are not absorbed into the bloodstream, do not provoke pigmentation, do not cause changes in cells.
There are several recommendations that will help extend the effect of self-tanning. First of all, do not apply the product to the skin immediately after using soap. Otherwise, a slightly alkaline reaction of the skin may occur, which will provoke its staining in a yellow shade. To extend the duration of the drug for tanning, it is necessary to maintain an optimal acid-base balance. To do this, the skin must be regularly toned and moisturized with the help of cosmetic preparations with a high pH index.
Unfortunately, after applying self-tanning, many women notice that it is uneven, it looks very ugly. Usually, the uneven distribution of the shade on the skin depends on the different thickness of the stratum corneum. In addition, the reason for this may be incorrect application of self-tanning. Therefore, it is desirable that the procedure is carried out by a qualified cosmetologist.
A few weeks before the procedure, you should undergo special training for it. To align the stratum corneum, it is worth using scrubs and acid peels based on salicylic, benzoic, azelaic, lactic acids during this time. You can also slightly improve the skin tone with the help of a diet. For example, you can artificially tint your skin if you eat foods with a high content of keratin, for example, carrots and oranges.
Photoaging is a serious problem for many, but it can be avoided or eliminated. Self-tanning is an excellent solution for those who want to have beautiful tanned skin, but at the same time would not want to take risks and be under the scorching sun. Unlike natural aging, photoaging can be prevented or cured. Of course, it is advisable to do everything possible to protect the skin from the effects of ultraviolet radiation with the help of a special set of preventive measures.
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